Elmina and Kakum

After a night in Accra, we head west. Elmina is the oldest castle on the western coast of Africa. We take a tour, standing in cells where slaves have lived and died. It is a humbling moment when the tour guide points out that while the Dutch were in church, right below them were women begging for their lives. Our history is full of mistakes and we haven't learned enough from the past. I dip my toes in the Atlantic, waves chasing me as I sink into the sand. The girls with trays of oranges balanced on their heads ask me to take their picture. The air smells fresh and the oranges are sweet, I am hesitant to get back in the van. Our arrival at Hans Botel reveals a surprise: the pool is open. We jump into the warm water and vow to never leave. One of the signs reads: "NO DROWNING". Day one is over. Day two arrives early and we watch crocs glide through the water as we eat our breakfast. Today we are headed for Kakum. Our tour guide tells us of the colobus, Diana, and Mona monkeys that live in the forest, but we know the truth. This forest is dead. There may be a few colobines left, and a few birds, but humans are the only prevailing mammals. We learn about fufu and banku, foods we will try in BFMS. We see rubber trees and trees that produce black dye, trees for pestles and trees for roofs. I skip the canopy walk to spare my nerves and dignity and let the others climb high in the trees while I tour the museum. We get back to Hans Botel and swim more, playing water games in the sun. I finally start my log book and readings, admitting that I am a student and not a vacationer. But being a student is fun when it involves lizards running across the ground and ants crawling up your leg. At dinner I try new things: groundnut soup (delicious) and grasscutter (similar to a guinea pig - tastes better than dog) But I am glad I ordered fried rice. I will get groundnut soup again another time. I still have four weeks to try new and crazy (and wonderful?) things.

The Myth of Africa

I open the window shade and see bright red land staring up at me: my first view of Africa. A thrill runs through me as I spot cities and dried rivers. The land stretches off in each direction for as far as I can see. I can see dunes that way and hills nearby. Though nearby could be kilometers away. We seem to fly over the Sahara for hours and I imagine what the people down there might be like. Probably like me, but not as cramped.I think about class, and talking about the myth of Africa. From up here all I can think of are the myths. Deserts for days, red sand, camels and mystery, or perhaps savanna and grasses, big game and wonder, or even jungle and trees, monkeys and monsters. Is there a "real Africa"? In an hour I will find out. The sun is setting and the sky is red streaked with yellow and blue. Black clouds form treetop silhouettes. Night falls and all I see is another plane blinking on the horizon. Then one star. The ground beneath me is black, we aren't near the cities yet. Who is down there? Probably someone like me, but warmer. This plane is freezing and I can't wait to get to the heat. The city comes into view quickly and turbulence hits as we begin our descent. Please don't fail me plane. I need to get to Africa! The landing is surprisingly smooth and I feel warm air seep into the cabin as they open the doors. I step off the plane onto the tarmac and am immediately covered in humid, sticky sweat. Ah, home!